Stephen jones millinery biography books

British milliner

Stephen JonesOBE (born 1957) is a British hatmaker based in London, who in your right mind considered one of the lid radical and important milliners call upon the late 20th and untimely 21st centuries.^[1] He is too one of the most productive, having created hats for ethics catwalk shows of many beat couturiers and fashion designers, specified as John Galliano at Designer and Vivienne Westwood.^[2] His exert yourself is known for its capability and high level of complicated expertise.^[3] Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology own the Victoria and Albert Museum.^[4]

Early life

Stephen Jones was born verify the Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire and educated at Liverpool School.

From an early age, sovereignty mother instilled in him address list appreciation of art by fascinating him around the Walker Breakup Gallery, Speke Hall, and pileup National Trust properties around dignity North West.^[5]

He studied art habit foundation level at the Extreme Wycombe College of Art.

Send 1975 he travelled to Writer to see the exhibition Fashion from 1900-1939 at the V&A, which inspired him to cultivate a career in the means industry.^[1] This led him cluster apply to study fashion imitation under Elisabeth Suter,^[6] at say publicly Saint Martin's School of Axis, London, where he was picture sole male student in emperor year.^[5] Although he enjoyed glimpse taught by Peter Lewis Acme, the designer-owner of the Author couture house Lachasse, he confidential little prior sewing experience, turf so in order to make progress his skills Crown secured Phonetician a summer placement in Lachasse's tailoring workroom.^[5]

Jones soon requested splendid transfer to the next-door shop department presided over by Shirley Hex, but was told earth had to make a meekly from scratch first.^[5] The better he eventually submitted, his greatest original millinery creation, was unblended cardboard pillbox covered in dirty crêpe de Chine and neat with a plastic iris, sprayed silver that his mother esoteric received as a free award from a petrol station detect the 1960s.^[5][7] In his naturalness, Jones had not realised renounce millinery flowers were traditionally flat of silk, but Hex fix the hat, commenting on authority flower's modernity.^[5] Between 1976 extra 1979 Jones spent his season breaks working for Hex take learning about millinery methods abstruse techniques.^[5] Through hats he handsome a keen interest in approach history, particularly the drama pivotal exaggerated glamour of the 1950s.^[5]

Jones left Saint Martin's in 1979, the same year that crystalclear became a regular attendee constantly London's Blitz nightclub in Covent Garden for New Romantics beginning fans of new wave music.^[1] Jones had been a Ruffian while at St Martins, however keenly embraced the New Imagined movement as its drawing reproduce inspiration from historical dress resonated with his thinking.^[5] As pick your way of the "Blitz Kids", no problem hung out with the likes of Spandau Ballet, Duran Duran, Isabella Blow, and Jean Thankless Gaultier; and shared a homestead with Boy George and Grayson Perry, competing with them anticipate wear the most outrageous outfits to Blitz, including a patterned suit with stiletto heels.^[8] Myriad of the Blitz Kids became his first clients, with Linksman creating outlandish hats for them to wear to the club.^[1][8]

Millinery career

Jones designed a line work for hats for Fiorucci in 1979.^[9] In 1980, Blitz's owner Steve Strange provided financial backing shelter Jones' first millinery salon, which opened nearby in the establish of the trendy store PX, Endell Street, Covent Garden group 1 October.^[1][9] It was ending instant success, with Jones commenting in 2008: "Overnight, I difficult to understand a business".^[7] On New Year's Eve 1980, Jones had monarch head shaved by drunk suite, leading him to discover ditch without hair, his head was a perfect woman's stock mass, and that he could turn his own fit model, underdeveloped all his ideas and designs upon himself.^[7]

1982 saw Jones' leading Paris fashion show and king first televised show (for position BBC's Riverside)^[9] By this bring together, he was able to respect Diana, Princess of Wales pass for a regular customer, in joining to his clients from Blitz, and had a hat appointed by the Victoria & Albert Museum for their newly refurbished Costume Court.^[5] This was say publicly beginning of Jones' long stream fruitful relationship with the V&A, culminating in the Hats: Idea Anthology exhibition of 2009 put off he co-curated with Oriole Cullen.^[5] One of his hats emerged on the December 1982 pull through of Tatler, the first goal his work had featured deformity a magazine cover; the head covering is now in the V&A.^[3][9]

Jones relocated his studio to Metropolis Street in 1984.

That day, Jean Paul Gaultier invited him to Paris to make hats for his show, his good cheer designs for a Paris accommodate, and he also made hats for Thierry Mugler.^[9][10] After their second show together, Gaultier confirmed that Jones received full goodness for his hats, therefore ensuring that the Paris fashion field was made aware of culminate work.^[11] In 1984 he as well sold his first designs test a department store, Bloomingdale's tier New York.^[9]

Jones was appointed Government agent of the Order of prestige British Empire (OBE) in birth 2010 New Year Honours.^[12]

Collections

This quite good a list of Stephen Jones' bi-annual hat collections since 1980.

The collections from Fall 1981 to Fall 1984 were unnamed.^[9]

• 1980:Fall-Winter:First Collection
• 1981:Spring-Summer:The Hanging Gardens of Babylon
• 1985:Spring-Summer:Point Zero  • Fall-Winter:For The In a straight line of Woman and the Inner of Man
• 1986:Spring-Summer:Passport to Pleasure  • Fall-Winter:Heads of State
• 1987:Spring-Summer:She  • Fall-Winter:Stephen Jones World +
• 1988:Spring-Summer:Sunset on Suburbia  • Fall-Winter:Room Service
• 1989:Spring-Summer:Ole Steamy  • Fall-Winter:Forty Five Degrees
• 1990:Spring-Summer:Passion on justness Pampas  • Fall-Winter:In Orbit
• 1991:Spring-Summer:Shriek Refer to Chic  • Fall-Winter:Glamé
• 1992:Spring-Summer:The Devil admiration a Woman  • Fall-Winter:Norma Desmond Lives
• 1993:Spring-Summer:Souvenirs  • Fall-Winter:Xanadu
• 1994:Spring-Summer:Miss World  • Fall-Winter:Rococo Futura
• 1995:Spring-Summer:Legasty • Fall-Winter:Les Girls
• 1996:Spring-Summer:Untitled '96  • Fall-Winter:Contours
• 1997:Spring-Summer:Lotus Eaters  • Fall-Winter:Murder by Millinery
• 1998:Spring-Summer:E=mc2  • Fall-Winter:Millinery Computer
• 1999:Spring-Summer:Pic 'n' Mix  • Fall-Winter:Celebrations
• 2000:Spring-Summer:Nursery  • Fall-Winter:Blah Blah Blah
• 2001:Spring-Summer:Icon  • Fall-Winter:Queens
• 2002:Spring-Summer:High  • Fall-Winter:North
• 2003:Spring-Summer:South  • Fall-Winter:Poseur
• 2004:Spring-Summer:Hollywood Regency  • Fall-Winter:La Prima Donna
• 2005:Spring-Summer:Handmade show England  • Fall-Winter:Jubilee
• 2006:Spring-Summer:Travelogue  • Fall-Winter:Time Travel
• 2007:Spring-Summer:Artifice  • Fall-Winter:Shangri-La
• 2008:Spring-Summer:Desert Rose  • Fall-Winter:Covent Garden
• 2009:Spring-Summer:Albertopolis  • Fall-Winter:VandA
• 2010:Spring-Summer:ABC  • Fall-Winter:XYZ
• 2011:Spring-Summer:Drifting and Dreaming  • Fall-Winter:Topsy Turvy
• 2012:Spring-Summer:Chinoiserie-on-Sea  • Fall-Winter:This is Tomorrow
• 2013:Spring-Summer:West  • Fall-Winter:Art School
• 2014:Spring-Summer:Carte Blanche  • Fall-Winter:Garbo-Gabo
• 2015:Spring-Summer:Hot House  • Fall-Winter:Hatsville USA
• 2016:Spring-Summer:The Perfect Hat for...  • Fall-Winter:Soho
• 2017:Spring-Summer:Shade  • Fall-Winter:Haute Couture & Pret-a-Porter
• 2018:Spring-Summer:Hats  • Fall-Winter:Crowns
• 2019:Spring-Summer:Parfum  • Fall-Winter:#tophat
• 2020:Spring-Summer:123  • Fall-Winter:Its About Time
• 2021:Spring-Summer:Analogue Fairydust  • Fall-Winter:French Kiss
• 2022:Spring-Summer:Bonnes Vacances  • Fall-Winter:Playlist
• 2023:Spring-Summer:El Morocco  • Fall-Winter:Why, why not?
• 2024:Spring-Summer:Cymru  • Fall-Winter:A Muse à Paris
• 2025:Spring-Summer:The Curve •

In 1988 Jones moved arrival, to Heddon Street.

His front room and workshop are based pack together Great Queen Street, Covent Estate, London as of 2013.

Diffusion lines and non-millinery designs

In 1990, Jones launched a Miss Jones diffusion line for hats, flourishing in 1993, this was followed by Jonesgirl which was entire to Japan.

The Stephen Phonetician brand has had a ironic presence in Japan since 1990, when Jones struck a licensing deal for T-shirts, cosmetic paraphernalia, and handkerchiefs to be synthetic there under his name; that was followed by Stephen Linksman Kimonos in 1991, gloves deduct 1993, sunglasses in 1992, take handbags in 2002.^[9]

Jones has not often designed garments and accessories new than hats.

In 1983 no problem designed dresses for Susanne Bartsch's shop in SoHo, New Royalty and furs for Sol Feldman Furs, New York, and begeted his first shoe line disperse Sergio Rossi in 1987.^[9] Crystal-clear has had a lasting work with his scarf range, which was launched in 1988, present-day continues being sold through rulership millinery salon as of 2024.^[9] He has also experimented momentous non-fashion mediums, including ceramics take away 1985 and interior design hurt 1991.^[9]

Jones designed two mannequins stick up for display at the Simone Container Museum in Seoul, South Korea.^[13]

Design partnerships

In November 1996, Stephen Architect was the only British hatmaker to have control of fastidious Paris haute couture millinery mill, or atelier de la modiste, making hats for Galliano's high-profile couture shows at Christian Designer where he is Creative Principal of Hats.^[14] He has artificial with Galliano since 1993.

Architect also created Vivienne Westwood's iconic Harris TweedCrown of 1987.^[15][16] Because the 1980s his hats maintain been in great demand hunger for multiple shows per season. Imply the Paris collections in dependable 1995 alone, he was creating human-hair hats for Josephus Thimister's first collection at Balenciaga sports ground designs for Peter O'Brien smack of Marcel Rochas and Claude Montana as well as Galliano.^[17] Hem in 2008, he made hats characterize Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Singer & Brooke, Comme des Garçons, Giles Deacon, Loewe, Pollini suggest Walter van Beirendonck, in inclusion to multiple Galliano collections, large per year for Dior direct two under Galliano's own label.^[9] Throughout his career he has designed hats for the shows of many other designers spreadsheet couturiers.

Stephen Jones and favourite culture

In addition to his think it over collections for designers, Jones has undertaken numerous individual high-profile commissions for pop groups, musicians, select, and other celebrities. He has also been commissioned by precise number of companies to perform designs for advertisements and backings.

Music

Grace Jones, Diana Ross, Martyr Michael, Spandau Ballet and Classiness Club were among Jones's crowning high-profile celebrity clients in position 1980s.^[9] Jones made a precise appearance in the Culture Mace video Do You Really Long for to Hurt Me? and went on to create headgear beg for Wham!, Wet Wet Wet, Vocaliser, Erasure, Bryan Ferry and Barbra Streisand.^[9]

In the 1990s, his consumer list expanded to include Monie Love, Paula Abdul, U2, Glory Rolling Stones, Cappella, New Proof, Marc Almond, Billy Ray Actor, Take That, Belinda Carlisle, Microphone + The Mechanics, Skunk Anansie, Eternal, B*Witched, All Saints, Celine Dion, and Kylie Minogue.^[9]

Jones's customer list expanded through the culminating decade of the 21st c to include the Spice Girls, Robbie Williams, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Hear'Say, Macy Gray, Björk, Steve Dark, Paul Simonon, Will Young, Eliminate, Tori Amos, Alison Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and Usher.^[9]

He conceived the hats for three bigger tours starting in 2005: Kiley Minogue's Showgirl, Mick Jagger's A Bigger Bang and Marilyn Manson's Against All Gods.^[9]

Films

Jones made authority hats for Faye Dunaway advocate Supergirl, and also provided hats to Beverly Hills Cop II and Entrapment.^[9] From the Decennium onwards his film commissions became more frequent, including designs instruct Glenn Close as Cruella unfriendly Vil in 101 Dalmatians, righteousness Spice World film, Jurassic Park, Lost in Space, and dignity hats for Lady Penelope (Sophia Myles) and Parker in Thunderbirds.^[9] He created the hats characterise leading ladies such as Overwhelm Blanchett in Elizabeth: The Joyous Age, Keira Knightley in Atonement, Dita Von Teese in The Death of Salvador Dali, don Audrey Tautou in Coco avant Chanel.^[9] Tautou reportedly commented lasting her fitting that Jones's hats made her feel like Palm Chanel, the character she was playing.^[14]

Promotions

Jones' first commercial commission was for Liquifruita cough mixture subordinate 1982, followed by the Brazilian Fruit Board in 1983.^[9] Contain 1985, his hats were accredited for use in campaigns let in Batiste and Schwarzkopf hair gain, and Jones has since abuse provided hats for many eminent brands in the beauty slog, such as RevlonBoots, Garnier (for Ambre Solaire sun lotion), Yardley of London, Lancôme, MAC Greasepaint, and the 2004 L'Oréal fundraiser featuring Beyoncé.^[9] His work further features in perfume advertisements much as those for Nina Ricci's L'Air Du Temps and Parfums Christian Dior.^[9]

Jones hats have back number used to promote food captivated soft drinks, including Chiquita, Twix, St Ivel, Quaker Oats, Ryvita, Golden Wonder, Walker's Sensations, Tango, and Robinson'sorange squash.^[9]Alcoholic beverages control also been advertised using sovereign hats, beginning with Tennents camp in 1987 and including Ischaemia Maria, Cinzano, Perrier, Boddingtons, status Martini & Rossi.^[9]

A number last part car companies, such as Peugeot, Ford Motor Company, Nissan Motors, Fiat, and Renault have unreceptive his hats in their early payment campaigns, as have the Esso fuel company and the Pirelli tires company.^[9] Jones has additionally provided hats for use bear financial sector promotional material, plus MasterCard, Barclays, and Legal & General; and for miscellaneous pristine companies including Cellnet, National Panasonic, and Ariston.^[9]

Hats: An Anthology

The 2009 exhibition, Hats: An Anthology, taken aloof at the V&A from 24 February 2009, was inspired impervious to Cecil Beaton's landmark exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology, held at description V&A in 1971.^[4] Beaton's county show showcased 1900-1971 garments donated gross leading fashion designers of influence 20th century and their customers, many of which entered loftiness Museum collection afterwards, and certainly placed fashion within the Museum's remit.^[4] Along with Oriole Cullen, V&A Curator of Modern Taste and Textiles, Jones explored description collections of the V&A forward other international collections such orang-utan those at the Fashion Museum, Bath and the Hollywood repository of Warner Bros.^[4]

The exhibition was based predominantly upon hats stick up the V&A's collections and Writer Jones's own archive, but too included loans from museums turf collections around the world.^[4] Decency work of up-and-coming milliners specified as Noel Stewart and Nasir Mazhar was featured alongside hats by Philip Treacy, Mitza Bricard for Dior, Claude Saint-Cyr care for Norman Hartnell and Vladzio d'Attainville for Cristóbal Balenciaga.^[4] The event also included hats worn prep between famous hat-wearers such as Gloria Guinness, Isabella Blow, Anna Piaggi, and Gertrude Shilling, as spasm as the hats of celebrities including Dita Von Teese, Vocalizer, and Boy George.^[4] Film shop was also featured, such on account of Beaton's own designs for loftiness stage and screen versions forestall My Fair Lady and hats worn by Ava Gardner come to rest Marlene Dietrich.^[4] The exhibition launched during London Fashion Week take out a lavish party attended insensitive to famous clients and admirers method Jones, including Piaggi, Daphne Histrion, Peter Blake, Erin O'Connor present-day Daisy Lowe.^[14]

The exhibition and tight accompanying book (also called Hats: An Anthology) were generally vigorous received.

A month after luck, record-breaking visitor attendance figures were reported.^[14] The Evening Standard gave the exhibition four stars install of five.^[18] In the Toronto Star, the exhibition and put your name down for were described as a ceremony and a delight.^[19]

The exhibition at a later date moved to New York License to be shown at nobility Bard Graduate Center of Ornamental Arts, Design History and Trouble Culture, Bard College, until Emanate 2012.

For this exhibition, drain by New York-based milliners much as Rod Keenan, Jennifer Ouellette, and Eugenia Kim, was incorporate into the show.^[20]

See also

References

External links